I dreamt last night of yellow and streaks of light in the night sky and so am glad of a day of distraction from the temple to give my imagination a rest! A couple of things happened yesterday to prompt my thoughts and give rise to this morning’s blog. Someone showed me some photos of the evening sky on October 3rd with clouds reflecting a brilliant light in the low sun. I was told that the lines across the sky were the heavenly spirits coming to the festival. Interesting. It reminded me of the light last week when I was alone at the temple in the rain at sunset. Here’s the photo I took then. Now you know why I need a day off!
And then yesterday again, a young man in the temple asked me if I knew the story of the Festival. I listened carefully as he told me the tale, according to his mother, of nine special humans (maybe brothers) who did good deeds and were so popular with the people that the jealous Emperor (of a long time ago) had them decapitated. Their death so upset the people that they began worshiping the nine brothers as if they were Emperors. When I asked him if he knew what was behind the yellow curtain he told me that he had no idea, but it must be the Emperor Gods.
I have asked a lot of visitors to the temple about the story behind the festival and there are so many variations – from blank stares, shrugs, and “We Pray to the God”, to more elaborate stories of headless heroes, magic musicians, sons of the Mother of Heaven, and of the stars in the sky. It really doesn’t matter what people believe, just that they believe. Their purpose in the temple is the pursuit of health, happiness and prosperity and it is personal and with good intentions.
Here is the myth that suits me best, probably because it is based on the geographical dissemination of popular culture. It comes from research by Cheu Hock Tong at the National University in Singapore. There is a link to the whole article in the sidebar, left. According to Cheu, the Ampang mythology ties in to the existence of a Hong Secret Society formed to overthrow the Qing and restore the Ming. Cheu writes “A Hong member by the name of Wan Yunlong was killed in battle…on the ninth day of the ninth month, 1783. His followers fled to Thailand, where, rebuffed by the Thai authorities, they moved south to the Penang area. Some Hong members settled in Ampang where they worked as planters and farmers and organized a clandestine movement to overthrow the Qing…”
I like this interpretation because it helps me understand the connections between the important Nine Emperor Gods Temples in Thailand and Penang and Ampang. But here’s where it gets really good and ties back to the yellow curtain. In Ampang, apparently, when the secret society was meeting (must have been in the 1860’s) the police arrived to investigate the gathering. This is what Cheu writes, “The group replied that it was praying for peace and protection. Seeing that there was only an incense urn and not image of any sort, the police said, ‘There is not deity here – what are you worshiping?’ One quick-witted soul pointed at the incense urn and replied ‘This is the god we worship!’…This accounts for the use of an incense urn to represent the Nine Emperor Gods during the festival.” Now, that’s a good story!!
Sooooooo, that MIGHT explain what’s behind the curtain! It’s all part of the secret and the wonderful aura of mystery that surrounds the Nine Emperor Gods Festival. Worshipers pray in the direction of the curtain and give joss sticks to the guardians of the altar to place in the urn. Worshipers never see the Emperor but they believe he is there. Blind faith and it works for them.
Next blog – let’s think about more yellow at the festival. Here’s a teaser.
Posted in Background Information
Tagged 2010, 9 emperor, Ampang, Chinese Deities, Chinese Festival, Chinese Temple, Festival, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, Nine Emperor Gods, Nine Emperor Gods Ampang, Nine Emperor Gods Festival, October, Procession, religion, spirituality, Taoism
The Nine Emperor Gods Festival in Ampang is a cacophony of visual stimuli. That’s why I enjoy it so much – the combination of the sacred and profane, the commercial and the spiritual, the dark and the light, and, I suppose, the yin and the yang. There is so much to think about.And that brings me to one element of the festival that must not be ignored – the beggars. We all understand that beggars are by no means exclusive to the Nine Emperor Gods Festival. And we know that they are most attracted to religious occasions when their customers can gain “merit” by giving them cash.
Last year I was impressed with the number of beggars that lined every pathway at the festival. This year, the beggars were in place before the stalls for the vendors were even erected.
I noticed that the early arrivals were the ones with serious physical disabilities. The others, the women with babies and the orphaned children didn’t arrive until Day 1, today.
In their pleading, there is an alertness to our need to donate at a time of devotion. For recognizing that and providing us with an opportunity for charity, I give them kudos (and all my small bills and coins!)
Here is a moment that speaks of the need and the generosity that surrounds this aspect of the festival.
The needy are acknowledged and their presence is accepted graciously.
I sense a level of syndication in the presence of the beggars at the festival and it isn’t just because I watched Slumdog Millionaire. Last year, there were numerous disadvantaged “foreigners” at the other end of the extended cups. Please don’t get me wrong. I’m not saying that they aren’t needy and my heart goes out to them in the difficult circumstances they are in. I’m raising this because it makes me think about the ways that the underprivileged are victimized and that their plight is even more distressing than at first glance. I suspect that many of the beggars are brought to the site by facilitators who monitor their business and don’t leave too much money in the pockets of those to whom we give it. I spent one evening at last year’s festival observing. It reminded me of “Oliver” without the musical accompaniment and the fairy tale ending. A couple of times I tried to help in a way other than throwing coins in a cup and my attempts were met with disdain. Silly me, I thought a child might like a drink – but her mother brushed it away nervously and asked for money. It appeared that she was being watched and that makes it all the more disturbing.
One last photo that does beg the question – What is really going on here?
Posted in Background Information
Tagged 2010, 9 emperor, 9 emperor gods, Ampang, Beggars, Chinese Deities, Chinese Festival, Chinese Temple, Festival, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, Nine Emperor Gods, Nine Emperor Gods Ampang, Nine Emperor Gods Festival, Nine Emperor Gods Temple, October
One of my favourite happenings at the Nine Emperor Gods Festival each year (and at Chinese festivals in general) is the releasing of small birds. I don’t like to see them caged, but the act of releasing them is lovely. I understand that in accordance with the principles of Feng Shui, releasing birds does two things to smooth your path in life – it gets rid of people and things that cause you trouble and invites the assistance of people who have an ability to save you from hopeless situations. Your odds of being successful are increased if you release birds. The birds are better off too.
And besides that the people who release the birds seem very happy to be doing it! So here are a couple more photos of those dear children. Their father bought them a second cage of birds to release, just so I could photograph them. That was pressure! The girls grabbed the cage and opened it and I was scrabbling! These were my last shots today and the first ones to share. There is a nice balance in that.
Posted in Festival Highlights
Tagged 2010, 9 emperor, 9 emperor gods, Ampang, Chinese Deities, Chinese Festival, Chinese Temple, Festival, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, Nine Emperor Gods Ampang, Nine Emperor Gods Festival, Nine Emperor Gods Temple, October, Releasing Birds, religion, spirituality, Taoism
Welcome to the Ninth Moon and the Nine Emperor Gods Festival!! The vendors are set up, the street food is fresh and delicious, the opera troupe is in place and the scene at the temple is smoky, smoky, smoky. Let’s have fun!
I apologize for the misinformation about the start of the Chinese Opera at the Nine Emperor Gods Festival in Ampang. I guess that’s why this is the “Almost Official” Guide. I was told (and reconfirmed) that the opera started on Friday. It was strange, but my gut was telling me that they would perform on Thursday evening, and they did. Not to worry, it wasn’t a big special show and they will perform everyday from now until Day 9 (October 16th) at 2pm and 8pm. October 8th (that’s today right now) at 10AM a few members of the opera troupe will ceremoniously pay their respects to the gods in the temple. Should be colorful, if nothing else.
The festival has really picked up in the past day. There should be big crowds there over the weekend, especially in the evening and again on Saturday, October 9th. The procession leaves at 7pm from the temple. They will walk out to Jalan Ampang and everyone will stop and take a break. A truck carrying the mediums and trance masters and a few members of the committee will head off to the river to get the “Finance Minister”. There is a fun party atmosphere while everyone waits and good photo ops for those always looking for such things. Upon the return of the truck with the with the Minister, the procession of floats and lions and dragons will turn around and head back through the main street of Pekan Ampang to the temple. It’s usually a smaller procession than the one to receive the Emperor but it always creates a good atmosphere.
More later. Hope to see you there.
Posted in Dates/Times/Whereabouts, Festival Highlights
Tagged 2010, 9 emperor, 9 emperor gods, Ampang, Chinese Deities, Chinese Festival, Chinese Temple, Festival, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, Nine Emperor Gods, Nine Emperor Gods Ampang, Nine Emperor Gods Festival, Nine Emperor Gods Temple, October, Procession
Mr Lim has been painting lanterns at the Nine Emperor Gods Temple in Ampang since he was 19 years old – more than 50 years! He has seen a lot of changes and is proud to be part of the team that undertook the renovations and preparations for the 2010 festival. Lim has been a busy man for the past couple of weeks. He had extra lanterns to make for the processions this year, as well as helping with the big dragon heads on one of the temple floats. (Why don’t I have a photo of those??)
It takes Lim about 2 days to make a lantern – he starts with the wire frames and adds the canvas in a process that is similar to the way Chinese umbrellas are made. The paint (probably toxic) is a high gloss, with a shellac that hardens on the canvas. He then paints Taoist symbols – dragons, tigers and scenes from the “life of the Emperor” on the lanterns. If you would like to commission a lantern, it will cost you a bit – RM1,000 – negotiable, I’m sure. Otherwise you can have your name put on a lantern for RM50 and it will hang in the temple for a year.
Stop by and see Lim when you visit the temple. He is stationed behind the lantern altar, towards the dormitories, stage left of the main temple building.
Posted in Background Information
Tagged 2010, 9 emperor, 9 emperor gods, Ampang, Chinese Deities, Chinese lanterns, Chinese Temple, Crafstman, Festival, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, Nine Emperor Gods, Nine Emperor Gods Ampang, Nine Emperor Gods Festival, Nine Emperor Gods Temple, October, Procession
Not knowing too much about Hokkien puppets, I will resort to the “picture is worth a thousand words” concept and show some photos from yesterday. These are Hokkien string puppets. There are also more traditional Hokkien hand puppet shows still being performed. I understand that in Taiwan the puppet shows at some festivals are now animated – influenced by Japanese Anime. Yikes.
The dialect in the performances at the Nine Emperor Gods Temple in Ampang was all Hokkien. These little guys are adorable. The troupe is Singapore based, where I assume that they get a lot more business than here. They also have a contact in Muar. They gave me a card but unfortunately for me, it’s in Chinese, no Englishlah. I saw Hokkien puppets at the Hungry Ghost Festival at the big Chinese temple in central Brickfields (Sum Kow Tong) and that troupe had been brought in from China. You can see old puppets upstairs at that temple in a small altar. I was also able to see a Hokkien hand puppet show at the Hungry Ghost Festival in Selayang.
It was very sweet yesterday to see the puppets taken to the altar to honor the gods before they performed. It was possible to feel the life in them.
- Kneeling before the altar in front of the Main Temple
These puppets are very photogenic and attracted the attention of more than one photographer! If you are a photographer and reading this – share your photos by clicking on the “Leave A Comment” button below and then link in. I see you at the festival and I know that you are taking a lot of interesting shots.
The stage is very makeshift and behind the scenes it’s a bit chaotic, as they eat and sleep in the space as well. Despite our language issues, the troupe was very welcoming and introduced me to the puppets and asked me to photograph the altar at the back where one older puppet (the Chinese deity of the Arts – Shiang Kong) is suspended to watch the proceedings. There are three puppeteers and two musicians in this troupe.
- The View from the Stage Altar
Last evening there was a pretty big crowd (for a Tuesday night!) and they seemed to be enjoying themselves. I only stood here for a moment, as I was a curious distraction for some.
I hope that you can get there today to see the show. Be sure to take a peek back stage and say hello before the show. Performances at 2pm and 8pm again today, October 6, 2010.
Posted in Festival Highlights, Mainly Photos
Tagged 2010, 9 emperor, 9 emperor gods, Ampang, Chinese Deities, Chinese Temple, Festival, Hokkien, Hokkien Puppets, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, Nine Emperor Gods, Nine Emperor Gods Ampang, Nine Emperor Gods Festival, Nine Emperor Gods Temple, October
Taking the Gods for a Stroll!
Two very busy days and no time to post. First thing to note is that there are no opera performances until Friday, Oct 8th. Sorry about the misinformation. The temple has substituted Hokkien Puppets at 2pm and 8pm on Tuesday (just finished) and Wednesday. I was there today and the puppets had an audience and they were paying attention and laughing. Charming troupe performing. Try to catch it.
I expect that the festival will be very quiet until Friday. That’s Ninth Month, First Day so it should gear up. The buses will start arriving with the Singaporeans, and there is a procession on Saturday evening at 7pm to receive the Emperor’s Finance Minister. When the word gets out about how beautiful the temple is and how the deities have been given a fresh sparkle, I expect that lots and lots of people will want to see it. Think about how smokey it will be!
In the last couple of days, I have walked kilometers, chasing processions, camera on tripod. I have a room in the dormitory at the temple so I’ve been sitting with my new roommates and listening to their stories, as well as taking some fun photos with them. They are beginning to realize that I am around for awhile and that I probably won’t stop asking questions! I have also met a lot of photographers at the festival. It has been good getting reacquainted with people and also making some new photographer friends- even some who have read the blog!
I was wearing a white scarf yesterday, at my new roommates’ suggestion, and out of respect for the festival. Also, the committee gave me an official T-shirt to help me along the procession route with the RELA guys. So, apologies if I looked liked a crazy expat. Don’t worry – I won’t be doing the trance/piercings at Thaipusam!
Lots of stories to tell and information to share. Keep visiting! More posts to come. And if anyone is reading this, could you please let me know what the red looks like in the photos. I desaturate it but looks bad on my monitor and I can’t tell what everyone else is seeing. Thanks!
Posted in Dates/Times/Whereabouts, Festival Highlights
Tagged 2010, 9 emperor, 9 emperor gods, Ampang, Chinese Deities, Chinese Festival, Chinese Temple, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, Nine Emperor Gods, Nine Emperor Gods Ampang, Nine Emperor Gods Festival, Nine Emperor Gods Temple, October, Procession, religion, spirituality, Taoism
Just a quick press for those of you looking for information about tonight’s Nine Emperor Gods Festival procession.
A map to the temple is on tv smith’s mycen blog which is linked in the left column on this page. Get there VERY early. The procession will be staged all along Jalan Merdeka, south from the temple so don’t even try to park in those lots in the area if you arrive after 5pm.
The procession will be huge! More than 50 floats with 16 dragons and lots and lots of lion dance troupes. All of the gods from the Nine Emperor Gods Temple will be paraded through the streets with drumming and excited crowds and too many smokey joss sticks. The procession will depart the temple at 7pm. I expect that by 5pm the lions and dragons will begin paying their respects to the Emperor so there will be some good photo ops in daylight at that time. The procession will take hours and hours as it winds through Ampang Jaya. Check out the map on the Two Processions blog I did earlier if you want to know the route and chase it. When the Emperor and the other deities return, they will be placed in their newly renovated altars. You can expect this to happen about 2AM.
Get ready for a long, raucous and very enjoyable evening! If you plan to photograph, be sure to bring lots of memory cards and a couple of extra batteries.
Here are a few photos I grabbed quickly from last night’s shoot. If you have photos from last night that you can get into an online gallery, let me know and I’ll post a link.
The Photographers' Favorite Dragon
Street Scene, Pekan Ampang, Nine Emperor Gods Procession, Oct 3rd
Why I Love This Festival!
Posted in Dates/Times/Whereabouts, Festival Highlights
Tagged 2010, 9 emperor, 9 emperor gods, Ampang, Chinese Deities, Chinese Festival, Chinese Temple, Festival, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, Nine Emperor Gods, Nine Emperor Gods Ampang, Nine Emperor Gods Festival, Nine Emperor Gods Temple, October, Procession, spirituality, Taoism